Tools Tools Tools

You can never have enough tools. You will never find every possible use for every tool. You will always find a better tool. There is no such thing as the perfect tool.

This article is geared towards a boat user more than a boat mechanic but boaters come to mechanics for advice so this may help you give some good advice.

  Boating entails a bit of Do-it-yourself to survive. I'm not referring to the cost that drives us there as much as it is the necessity. The "use to repair ratio" is somewhat less than an airplane but significantly higher than a modern automobile. From a safety stand point, it is best to know more about your boat than the guy who would tow you in.
  I've seen a lot of lists and frankly most of them are not written from the view point of a mechanic or a boater in need of the stuff on the list.
  The only purpose to have tools onboard, is to service a malfunction that other wise might leave you dead in the water. Understanding what the most likely situation would be, by it's probability of occurrence, is the only way to become prepared.  So with that in mind, the first thing you should have on board is a contingency plan. What if I hit a big rock, what if I suck a rope into my prop, what if I loose power to my dash board, what if I seem to be out of fuel, what if I see a warning light on the dash, what if I'm taking on water, what if I'm dead in the water and I need to do something quick... are all things you should ask yourself before you leave the dock. Short of  actually being out of fuel, or breaking a drive shaft almost all other problems can be easy to solve.
  Learning where wires come from and go to, knowing what fuses do what and having backups, installing a small reserve fuel tank, carrying a spare prop and the tools to change it, using your dual battery system correctly, etc. are but a start to an uneventful day of boating. Actually that is what this web sight is all about....
  The  way to start is to plan for the one thing you know the least about. Your first purchase is the engine manual. Take it to the boat and try to use it. I did say use it, not just read it.  If this is not possible, stock up on flares.... For you see you can learn the rules of the road, all day long, but if your dead in the water, the only one you need to know is how to use the VHF, in a courteous manner, while screaming "Mayday."
   Obviously, memorizing the entire manual isn't the idea here. But, learning how and what to do if a certain failure occurs, by its probability of occurrence, is where to start Then by doing some dry runs, similar to what would have to be done on the water, the situation won't be so overpowering. The best example, is that some motors have to be lifted off of their forward motor mount, to change the alternator belt. So, having a spare belt put in place and tied to the side, before the old one goes out, wouldn't be a bad idea. Look your engine over and look for things similar to that and try to plan for a repair at sea.
  Next, all manuals have a trouble shooting flow chart of some sort. Look it over because it usually covers the most frequent and obvious problems that could go wrong with your motor. You should ask, yourself, if you could follow the suggested steps for a certain problem, and where are the items that they suggest looking at. There are some thing's you can't do at sea and you can't carry every spare part, but surprisingly enough, most break downs at sea don't need a lot of parts. Often it's not the part itself that failed as much as it is the connections from it, to something else.
One of the more common problems experienced by boaters is clogged fuel filters. Besides having spare filters on-board; make sure you have the tools to change them. Also, carry a container to store the used ones in, to prevent spillage.  If you own a diesel then also know how to bleed your fuel lines and the tools required to do so.
   Besides the usual pliers, screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, vice-grips, and stuff... the next suggestion isn't a tool as much as it should be a kit. This kit should contain any and all items that would have to do with, the testing and repair of your electrical system. You know, buy a cheap tool box, then stock it up with the fuses, connectors, fuse holders, etc. that are already in use on your boat. Add in electrical tape, wire, crimp connectors,  wire stripper and or crimper, wire cutter, 12 volt test light, several jumper wire sets with alligator clips on the ends, and you'll be ready for the normal power outage.
Things vibrate loose, wire connectors overheat, fuses blow, and occasionally a main power supply will go dead. It's not always easy to know how your boat is wired, since few builders supply their buyers with a complete electrical blueprint, but again most problems are simple ones. Fuse holders, switches, battery connections that are exposed to the elements are always the most suspect.  Don't always figure that a part failed, if nothing else check some connections and... you know..... jiggle some wires or kick it... (carefully)
Look your boat over. Does it have standard or metric fasteners? Most engines today have a mix of both. Carrying a full set of sockets for both is silly, so check out what sockets and wrenches you do need, and carry only what you need. Usually you'll find things like alternators, power steering pumps, starters, dash board nuts, etc. that could be either standard or metric.
   I would like to note that there isn't much sense in carrying tools for jobs you don't plan on doing, so don't just buy every tool or special tool, because you will never need, or want to, let's say.. rebuild a trim motor out on the water.

   If your interested in more tool and tips we have a section geared more towards a mobile service person, but you will probably find some other good ideas there.

Not Quite Tools but could be, under the right circumstances...

wire hangers; Every body knows that wire hangers have a 101 uses, so let your wife fill the closet with those plastic ones and you take the metal ones..
rubber inner-tube; It patches, it plugs, it insulates, it fills holes, it wraps hoses, it stops rattles, it's durable and you can get them for free from some tire stores. Cut into strips; use as chafe-guard for wires and hoses,  place under tanks, noisy pumps, and also, reduce  noise when installed under engine mounts.
Plastic tips shipped with tubes of caulking; Great to plug the extra holes in Volvo and Mercruiser gear cases when using a standard flushing device over the side intake of the lower unit.
wire ties;    What do you get when you put 20 wire ties together end to end? A belt to hold up your swim trunks.
outboard primer bulb; It can get you home if your fuel pump fails.
duct tape;  Do I even have to cover this tool....
3 ft. piece of 2x4;  It's a pry bar, it's a hammer, it can be hammered it's light weight, and it floats.
2 liter Pop bottle;   It dips, it catches drips, it won't rust like coffee cans, the cut off top makes a  great funnel, and best of all it's not affected by ACETONE.
Electrical Tape in a can; It's a great product to seal out moisture from electrical crimp connections but it also works as a repair on insulated tool handles. 

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