Extended storage is considered to be any length of time that would allow the oil
and conditioners used during the lay up period, to run down and or dry up from the system.
If you didn't winterize, let's say, and your motor has been in storage for more than 6
weeks, this information applies to you. This is not to say that these suggested procedures
may not be needed on, a high performance engine, every time it is started. You will need
to make that call yourself.
The dry motor
First, the fuel dries in the carb. Second, this usually leads to the fuel line
running dry because some siphoning of fuel back to the fuel tank can and will occur
especially if the anti-siphon valve isn't sealing properly.. The oil drips from the
bearings and begins to settle in the bottom of the oil pan.
The time frame for this? Depending on the temperature, this could happen in under 1 week.
It is important to consider dry starts on marine engines almost every time
it's started. EFI has helped reduce the dry fuel system, but the need for pre-lubing a dry
motor is still present. It is because EFI can start an engine almost instantaneously that
high performance users should consider pre-oiling an engine before start up, especially
if it has sat more than a few months.
Fitting Out After Storage
1. Clean up, reinstall, and charge battery to full capacity.
2. Inspect entire exhaust system for worn or broken parts. Replace worn hose with
"certified" hose. Double clamp each exhaust hose connection with
3. Inspect entire fuel system for evidence of water or probable leaks. Repair immediately.
4. Close all drain valves and carefully inspect all water lines for deterioration.
5. Replace any frayed belts and install to proper tension.
6. Check engine oil and transmission fluid levels. Add oil or fluid as needed to bring
levels up to "full" mark on dipsticks. Do not overfill.
(See Pre-Oil, below, before you fill the engine oil.)
7. Check propeller shaft alignment.
8. Reinstall the sea pump impeller if it was removed during lay-up.
9. Check throttle and shaft control cables for proper engagement.
10. Install new spark plugs, ignition points, and condenser.
11. Inspect and replace plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor as needed.
12. Check and replace the engine thermostat and pressure relief valves if they show
excessive wear or corrosion. (Pressure relief valves are used only on raw water cooled
13. For engines with closed cooling, fill heat exchanger with 50-50 mixture of fresh water
and antifreeze coolant. Check heat exchanger pressure cap for performance and replace if
If you need to pre-oil the engine, there are several methods.
1) Ground Coil lead
2) Remove spark plugs
3) Spray fogging oil into cylinders
4) Hook water to sea water pickup
5) Ventilate engine room then crank until you get a oil pressure reading at the dash
Note: On engines equipped with a water lift muffler, turn water supply to engine off after
1 minute of no-start cranking. Then continue to crank until you get an oil pressure
6) Assemble and start motor
Pressure Can method:
For this method you will need a oil pressure can. And it is best to drain the engine oil
(See tools section for picture and description)
1) Remove oil pressure sender.
2) Thread pressure can adapter into block.
3) Fill pressure can will the correct type and amount of oil, called for.
4) Ground coil lead, then turn the ignition to "ON".
5) Open valve on pressure can and watch oil pressure gauge.
If all goes well, you should have a gauge reading before the pressure can runs out of oil.
6) Re-install oil pressure gauge, then test run motor.
Power Drill Method:
The traditional power drill pre-oiling method is most often used when assembling
an engine for the first time. It is often difficult and sometimes impossible to do when
the motor is installed in some boats. However, it is the most effective method for getting
the entire oiling system of the engine pre-oiled and ready to run.
You will need the adapter for the engine you are pre-oiling. You can make one from an old
distributor by removing the cam gear from the distributor shaft and modifying the shaft so
you can chuck the rotor end of the shaft in a drill. (Go to your local junk yard if you
want to get one and use this method.)
1) Remove distributor cap and mark distributor and rotor locations.
2) Remove Distributor
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